Ehime Sake: Uncovering the Hidden Charms of Iyo's Local Brews

Spanning About 400 Years! The History of Ehime's Sake Making

Sake has been produced in Ehime Prefecture for over 400 years. Records show that by 1611 (Keicho 11), during the late Sengoku period, it was already known throughout Japan as "Iyo's Dogo Sake."

Behind this long history lies Ehime's blessed natural environment. The abundant underground water flowing from the Shikoku Mountains, including Ishizuchi Mountain, the highest peak in western Japan, and the climate conditions where cold winds blow to mountain villages in winter create a perfect environment for sake making.

Today, over 30 breweries remain scattered throughout Ehime Prefecture, continuing to brew distinctive sake while inheriting traditional techniques. Many breweries from Ehime have won gold medals at the "National New Sake Appraisal Competition," earning high national-level evaluation for the prefecture's regional sake.

Two Master Brewer Groups Supporting Ehime

The existence of "toji" (master sake brewers), the craftspeople of fermentation, greatly influences Japanese sake quality. Ehime is home to two master brewer groups nationally known.

One is the Ochi toji group, based in Miyakubo Town, Imabari City. Known as a group with high technical skills that have been recognized by the government as "contemporary master craftsmen," they have long supported Ehime's sake brewing.

The other is the Ikata toji group, based in Ikata Town on the Sada Peninsula. Its origins trace back to the Edo period, representing one of Japan's most distinguished brewing groups with remarkable history and tradition. In the past, many toji traveled for work and were invited to breweries throughout Japan, spreading Ehime-style brewing techniques.

The fact that these skilled craftspeople have continuously refined their techniques over many years is one major reason Ehime's sake has received high evaluations at national competitions.

In recent years, many breweries have abandoned the seasonal toji system and switched to styles where brewery family members take the lead in sake production. Ishizuchi Sake Brewery pioneered this change, switching to a family-centered brewing style in 1999, an early move in the industry, and continues sake making that spares no effort.

Ehime-Born Brewing Rice and Yeast

Ehime has continuously maintained commitment to locally unique raw materials.

In 1998, Ehime's research institutions and breweries cooperated to develop "EK-1," a prefecture-specific yeast. This EK-1, which draws out the soft aroma and flavor characteristic of Ehime's regional sake, is still used by many breweries throughout the prefecture.

Furthermore, in 2009, Ehime Prefecture developed its own sake-suitable rice called "Shizuku Hime." Named with the wish that "delicious Japanese sake essence is born from Ehime rice," this rice produces soft, umami-rich flavor and has become increasingly popular, now used even in other prefectures like Kochi.

Each year, at the "Shizuku Hime Summit" hosted by the Ehime Brewers Association, tastings of sake brewed from this rice are held, attracting many sake enthusiasts. As Ehime's representative brewing rice, its presence continues to grow!

In this way, the craftspeople's techniques accumulated over a long history and commitment to Ehime-specific materials form the foundation of the current regional sake culture.

Gentle and Smooth! The Secret Behind Ehime's Sake Flavor

Ehime's Japanese sake is often characterized by an "overall soft, settled flavor with subtle sweetness." As the term "Iyo's sake for women" suggests, its charm lies in refined gentleness rather than strength. Why does such flavor develop? The secret lies in water and rice.

Water Born From Ishizuchi Mountain Determines Flavor

Producing Japanese sake requires far more water than imagined. Beyond just brewing, including tool cleaning, approximately eight times the volume of finished sake in water is used. For this reason, water quality greatly influences sake flavor.

Ehime boasts abundant underground water flowing from the Shikoku Mountains, including Ishizuchi Mountain. At "Uchinuki" self-pumping wells unique to Ehime, clear groundwater naturally springs forth simply by driving iron pipes into the ground. This practice symbolizes the richness of Ehime's water resources.

Much of this water is "soft water." With soft water, fermentation proceeds slowly and gently, producing sake with smooth mouthfeel and gentle flavor. The ultra-soft water used by Ishizuchi Sake Brewery for brewing is known as quality water that won consecutive first-place awards at the Environment Agency's "National Delicious Water Appraisal Competition."

The Ehime Brewers Association explains it as "the underground water from Ishizuchi Mountain creates the smooth, profound flavor of sake." Water is an essential element shaping the character of Ehime's regional sake.

Two Types of Brewing Rice Create Distinctive Flavors

When discussing Ehime sake, the existence of two brewing rice types—"Matsuyama Mitsui" and "Shizuku Hime"—is indispensable.

Matsuyama Mitsui is a rice originally enjoyed as food rice on dining tables. With large grains and low protein, it's also suitable as brewing rice, producing sake with a characteristic "light and dry" crisp flavor. As rice used by Ehime breweries over many years, it represents the foundation of the regional sake culture.

Shizuku Hime is Ehime Prefecture's first brewing-suitable rice, born in 2009. It produces soft, umami-rich flavor with subtle sweetness and easy drinkability, pairing excellently with food. As rare rice cultivated only in Ehime, its high quality has led to use in other prefectures.

Even within Ehime sake, flavor changes significantly depending on which rice is used. If you see "Matsuyama Mitsui" or "Shizuku Hime" written on the label, be sure to compare them!

Deep Connection to Seto Inland Sea Food Culture

Another reason Ehime's Japanese sake achieves a gentle flavor is its connection to local food culture.

Ehime Prefecture faces two seas—the Seto Inland Sea and the Uwa Sea—with delicate seafood like sea bream, flounder, and fish cake as dining staples. To highlight these ingredients' subtle flavors, sake without strong character and gentle mouthfeel became cherished. The Ehime Brewers Association describes it as "sake nurtured in the Seto Inland Sea's calm climate, offering 'healing sake' that brings comfort."

A unique way to enjoy sake as a citrus-production region is pairing citrus-based dishes with regional sake. The combination of sweetness from Iyo citrus or sweet daidai oranges with crisp sake is a distinctly Ehime dining enjoyment.

Enjoying Three Areas! Regional Individuality

Ehime Prefecture divides into three areas from east to west: "Eastern Ehime," "Central Ehime," and "Southern Ehime." Each has different terrain and culture, with slightly differing sake flavors—an interesting aspect. Even within Ehime's sake, comparing drinks while noting the area deepens appreciation!

Eastern Ehime: Fresh and Clean Flavor

The Eastern Ehime area, stretching at the foot of Ishizuchi Mountain, features many sake with "light and clean" flavors utilizing clear underground water. The appeal is easy drinkability suited for aperitif or food accompaniment sake.

Seiryû Sake Brewery based in Saijo City produces "Iyo Kagi-ya," featuring refined, clean taste with underground water from the Shikoku Mountains and Ehime-produced brewing rice. Using Saijo City's "Uchinuki spring water," selected for Japan's "Top 100 Natural Waters," it pursues gentleness never tiring even with daily consumption.

Ishizuchi Sake Brewery in Saijo City's "Ishizuchi" emphasizes koji making, earning national high evaluation for excellent balance of refreshment and umami. Umesaka Yamakawa in Shikoku Central City, founded in 1872, continues brewing "Umesaka" suited for aperitif or food accompaniment sake within a deep history.

Central Ehime: Light Yet Umami-Rich

Sake from Central Ehime, centered on the prefecture's capital Matsuyama City, features solid umami within a clean mouthfeel. The balanced taste pairs easily with various dishes.

Yuki Suzume Sake Brewery in Matsuyama City leverages carefully selected ingredients and medium-hard water, producing "Yuki Suzume" known for crisp taste. The "Yuki Suzume Legend," a high-polish junmai ginjo at 30% remaining grain rate, perfectly suits special occasions.

With the Dogo Hot Spring tourism destination in Central Ehime, many visitors enjoy regional sake, and Matsuyama features an antenna shop "Kura-moto-ya" stocking Ehime regional sake. A popular shop where about 28 prefecture breweries' approximately 150 brands can be sampled and purchased on-site.

Southern Ehime: Deep, Rich Flavor

Southern Ehime, with its ria coastline along the Uwa Sea, features the most full-bodied and deep sake among the three areas. Many breweries create hearty flavors matching food culture with abundant seafood resources.

Nakashiro Honke Sake Brewery, based in Seiyo City, uses clear spring water flowing from its backyard and Ehime-produced brewing rice, creating "Shirokawa-go" with soft, umami-rich flavor. Popular as easy-to-drink sake for overall Japanese cuisine and those unfamiliar with sake.

Sake Roku Sake Brewery in the Uwajima City area brews "Kyo Hina Ittouryo", a crisp, sharp dry style inheriting Ikata toji techniques. An individualistic brewery that tackled junmai and ginjo sake early in Ehime's sake history.

Summarizing the Three Areas' Flavors in One Line

Sake from any area pairs well with delicate white fish like sea bream and flounder from the Seto Inland Sea, cherished as "healing sake." Enjoy with Ehime regional cuisine to better appreciate its charm!

Recently, Ehime's regional sake attracts not only domestic but also international attention. At international competitions like "SAKE COMPETITION" and "IWC (International Wine Challenge)," Ehime breweries have accumulated awards, with their quality recognized on the world stage.

Conclusion

Ehime's Japanese sake is a gentle, smooth regional sake born from three unified elements: Ishizuchi Mountain's quality water, two unique brewing rice types, and master brewers' skills. Approximately 400 years of accumulated tradition coexisting with contemporary innovation defines the charm of Ehime's regional sake culture. Since flavor characteristics differ by area among Eastern, Central, and Southern Ehime, be sure to compare while finding your favorite bottle!

*This article uses AI for information organization, writing assistance, and proofreading. The structure and final review are conducted by the Kraport editorial team.